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Author Topic: What's a good drag radial to get?  (Read 737 times)
David Claflin
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« on: May 04, 2007, 05:48:29 PM »

What do you have and what kind of 60fts. have you gotten with them. How many miles did you get out of them?
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2007, 05:53:39 PM »

I'm on my second set of Nitto's, but wish I'd gone with the M/T's.  The first set was great in the rain, and I got consistant 1.70 60' times.  The best was 1.67.  This set.....not as good.
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2007, 05:55:49 PM »

subscribing
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2007, 06:28:45 PM »

It was recently discussed in the corral lounge - try searching, if it'll allow you to search the lounge.
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2007, 06:45:12 PM »

i went threw 2 sets of  nittos and got about a  1 1/2  out of them.they were good tires Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2007, 07:29:37 PM »

Are you looking for a DR that will hook or a DR that will get you some decent street miles?

245/50/16 nittos for me 1.67...

MT DR's will likely get you A LOT better 60' and consistency but the tires will wear our quicker...
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2007, 07:41:50 PM »

Nitto's will be good for street driving and greatly help your 60', but they do not hook up like a MT or a BFG. The downside to MT's or BFG's like JD said is that they wear out fast. I street drove a set of BFG's since the car was my daily and went through 2 sets in a year and a half. I did quite a few burnouts for fun and what not, but I have a friend with Nitto's that treated his car equally as rough and he sold the car with the same set of Nitto's on it.
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2007, 02:48:54 AM »

If you're driving it more than 2k miles per season, go with the Nittos. Great compromise, but you're not going to get the 60' times down like you would with the BFG/MT's.

Nittos are much better in the rain, although that's not saying much. At all.  Cheesy
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2007, 03:12:31 AM »

I've been using BFGs since 2001. Best 60 ft to date was 1.74. Bear in mind, this car doesn't get driven much (pretty much only from may-oct yearly, approximately 800 miles a year) so my tires tend to last a long time. My 15s lasted till 2004, and the ones I have on there now might as well be new (they're 17s).
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2007, 03:41:57 AM »

if you plan on running DR's... plan on NOT driving in the rain.  Lemmie tell you... getting caught in the rain with them almost wrecked me a few times.  All it takes is A LITTLE puddle, A LITTLE throttle, and you have a dangerous at highway speeds..
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« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2007, 03:55:08 AM »

nittos are junk if youre looking to get a car down the track. you have to do a john force style burnout to put heat in them.....but they are ok if youre looking to get a little better traction than an oem tire on the street. they are ok in the rain also.

bfg or mt is definately the tire of choice for better 60ft time, and dont require a long burnout......but you sacrifice driveability in the rain, and they wear out real quick if you have a heavy foot.



just remember.....if youre running a low profile tire....no matter what it is....it will be hard to put any kind of real power down.


if youre a weekend warrior at the track, get an extra set of lightweight rear rims and put a pair of slicks on them.....and just switch them when you go racing at the track...with a cheapie floor jack and a 4 way wrench it takes about 5 minutes.


another thing noone here touched on.......if you like to keep your car clean, and keep your quarters and rear bumper chip free....drag radials are not the move.
a drag radial naturally gets hot and sticky when you just drive around. with that said, it also picks up every pebble and grain of sand you drive over....flinging them all over the back of your car/the car behind you. the stickier drs also stir up a lot of dust....which will cover the back of your car

and like i said before, a nitto doesnt get hot real easy.....so you will not experience the sand/pebbles flinging around so much.....but they dont hook as well..
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« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2007, 05:10:54 AM »

if you plan on running DR's... plan on NOT driving in the rain.  Lemmie tell you... getting caught in the rain with them almost wrecked me a few times.  All it takes is A LITTLE puddle, A LITTLE throttle, and you have a dangerous at highway speeds..
Nitto's are great in the rain.  Unless you have a spool. Grin


nittos are junk if youre looking to get a car down the track. you have to do a john force style burnout to put heat in them.....but they are ok if youre looking to get a little better traction than an oem tire on the street. they are ok in the rain also.

bfg or mt is definately the tire of choice for better 60ft time, and dont require a long burnout......but you sacrifice driveability in the rain, and they wear out real quick if you have a heavy foot.



just remember.....if youre running a low profile tire....no matter what it is....it will be hard to put any kind of real power down.


if youre a weekend warrior at the track, get an extra set of lightweight rear rims and put a pair of slicks on them.....and just switch them when you go racing at the track...with a cheapie floor jack and a 4 way wrench it takes about 5 minutes.


another thing noone here touched on.......if you like to keep your car clean, and keep your quarters and rear bumper chip free....drag radials are not the move.
a drag radial naturally gets hot and sticky when you just drive around. with that said, it also picks up every pebble and grain of sand you drive over....flinging them all over the back of your car/the car behind you. the stickier drs also stir up a lot of dust....which will cover the back of your car

and like i said before, a nitto doesnt get hot real easy.....so you will not experience the sand/pebbles flinging around so much.....but they dont hook as well..
All excellent points.  What do you consider a long burnout? 
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« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2007, 07:12:23 AM »

My MTs seems to be softer than the BFGs that I had, but those things where bought when they first came out. I have heard they switched compounds since then.
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« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2007, 11:08:11 AM »

Thanks for the input, I have a set of 15x7 V6 mustang wheels that I can use as for the drag radials. It sounds like I'd be better off keeping them for dedicatd track duty.
These are what I'm looking at getting now, only they require a tube.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT%2D3752&N=700+300951+4294854796+115&autoview=sku
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« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2007, 01:47:16 PM »

All excellent points.  What do you consider a long burnout? 

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btw, brand new nittos may be great in the rain but nittos that have 100 passes on them (aka no tread) are like driving slicks.
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« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2007, 03:25:18 PM »

Thanks for the input, I have a set of 15x7 V6 mustang wheels that I can use as for the drag radials. It sounds like I'd be better off keeping them for dedicatd track duty.
These are what I'm looking at getting now, only they require a tube.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT%2D3752&N=700+300951+4294854796+115&autoview=sku

They don't require a tube... trust me, I've ran many sets for years with no tubes and no problems. 
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« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2007, 03:43:24 PM »

I have a set of those on welds w/o tubes....  no problems either.  You'll need tubes if you decide to put screws in the wheels.
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« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2007, 04:14:29 PM »

Thanks for the input, I have a set of 15x7 V6 mustang wheels that I can use as for the drag radials. It sounds like I'd be better off keeping them for dedicatd track duty.
These are what I'm looking at getting now, only they require a tube.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT%2D3752&N=700+300951+4294854796+115&autoview=sku

How bad are the police in your area?

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« Reply #18 on: May 05, 2007, 04:15:36 PM »

is that a trick question??? Wink
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« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2007, 04:19:06 PM »

is that a trick question??? Wink

Technically, they are DOT approved.

However, he may want the ET Street Radials and not the ET Streets.

Not sure how he views or how the police are when checking tread depth.
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« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2007, 05:37:31 PM »

Technically, they are DOT approved.

Bulls***.
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« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2007, 05:50:49 PM »

I have a set of those on welds w/o tubes....  no problems either.  You'll need tubes if you decide to put screws in the wheels.
No need for that.

The police are visible around here, however I think I'll just have these for commuting back and forth to the track. I don't like changing at the track so I'll do it here before I leave. The track is only about 30 miles away.
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« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2007, 05:03:37 AM »

Thanks for the input, I have a set of 15x7 V6 mustang wheels that I can use as for the drag radials. It sounds like I'd be better off keeping them for dedicatd track duty.
These are what I'm looking at getting now, only they require a tube.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT%2D3752&N=700+300951+4294854796+115&autoview=sku



now those are the tires you want.....and keep them for track duty


and you dont have to run a tube with them.
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« Reply #23 on: May 06, 2007, 05:09:15 AM »

As soon as I burn down these futuras I have on those wheels now I'll get the MT's. Wrinkle walls FTMFW!!!! LOL
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« Reply #24 on: May 06, 2007, 06:27:38 AM »

lol... hope you got battle boxes, upgraded axles, diff, and driveshaft Smiley
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« Reply #25 on: May 10, 2007, 11:25:25 AM »

lol... hope you got battle boxes, upgraded axles, diff, and driveshaft Smiley
That was going to be my next question, how long will stock axles tolerate the slicks? THe torque boxes and other attach points have been welded by previous owner.
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« Reply #26 on: May 10, 2007, 11:42:56 AM »

stock axles are a wash...some last some break.  I currently run them in the 92 but its not what I'd like under there - especially cutting under 1.7.  Even some aftermarket 28 spline axles will be an improvement.  IDK how long the diff will hold out but at least you wont shoot a f***ing axle out the side at 40mph...
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« Reply #27 on: May 15, 2007, 01:51:59 PM »

I blew apart an Auburn Pro posi with Moser 31's and FMS 4.10's and an aluminum D/S setup on DR's, anything is possible. The car was a at-most low-13 car.
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