How involved is suspension work?

[Chowder Head]

First off, for anyone who is going to say don't do it, have someone else put it, you'll just screw it up, kindly shut the hell up.

I've been reading over at the other forums and it doesn't seem THAT complicated.  What I've heard, is when changing the springs, shocks and struts, the rear is a breeze but the front is a litte bit more complicated.  Anyone know of a link that shows exactly what's happening?  I've read the method done by MFE, and it works well I hear but I need that sorta dumbed down, since I'm new and all.

Don't worry, I don't have the parts yet, but when I order them in the future, I'd like to be a bit more informed on what exactly I have to do.  Maybe some hints, a few pointers, really, anything at all.

Thanks guys and gals.

[speedfreak87]

front springs are a b**** unless you've done them before.. first time it sucks..
Rear springs - jack up car, put jackstand under frame, unbolt lower shock bolts, lower rear.. (helps if there are two people) stand/push down on rear, remove spring, install new one. same fro the opposite side. jack rear back up, tighten shock bolts. done, lower the rear..

Front - jack car up as high as you can get it.. place jack stands under frame rails, lower onto jack stands, place jack under control arm, jack up to remove the load. unbolt the lower bolt that holds the spinde to the balljoint/control arm. unbolt the sway bar endlinks, SLOWLY lower jack until clear of control arm,DO NOT STAND IN FRONT OF WHEEL WELL, STAND OFF TO THE SIDE. pull spring out, you'll need a 3ft pry bar for install of new springs.instert spring into top perch, and raise control arm with jack until slight pressure on spring. take prybar and carefully pry spring into place, once in place jack up further, tighten spindle and rod end down, and you're all set.. it seems easy, but it's a pain in the ass... just be patient, and if you could have someone help you I recomend it.

[Chowder Head]

Thanks for the reply Joe.  It's nice to see what I'll be getting myself into.  I've been looking at my Haynes manual and it doesn't seem too bad.  Only thing that pisses me off if when each step wants you to refer to a different section in the book.  Flip over here, flip over there. 

Just a got a few questions if you don't mind.  In your first paragraph about the rear springs, what is accomplished by pushing down on the rear?  Doesn't that compress the spring so it would be harder to take out?

And about the front springs, when you say slowly lower the jacks until they are clear of the control arms, what exactly do you mean?  Do you want to make sure the control arms aren't connected to anything?

Thanks man!

[speedfreak87]

Thanks for the reply Joe. It's nice to see what I'll be getting myself into. I've been looking at my Haynes manual and it doesn't seem too bad. Only thing that pisses me off if when each step wants you to refer to a different section in the book. Flip over here, flip over there.

Just a got a few questions if you don't mind. In your first paragraph about the rear springs, what is accomplished by pushing down on the rear? Doesn't that compress the spring so it would be harder to take out?

And about the front springs, when you say slowly lower the jacks until they are clear of the control arms, what exactly do you mean? Do you want to make sure the control arms aren't connected to anything?

Thanks man!

those manual tend to be like that. lol!

Pushing down on the one side of the rear,  gives you more room to remove the spring.

For the front, once everything is disconnected, you don't want to drop the jack as it gives the spring a chance to fly out.. that's not a good thing.. that's also why you don't stand in front of it.

[Chowder Head]

Alright guys, since I need new tires and I'm probably going to get a set of FR500 rims as well, I figure I can tackle the suspension now as well.

Now what would you guys recommend I do to improve a daily driven car like mine?  I know springs/shocks/struts but what else?  Control arms as well?  Both upper and lower?  I've heard only one is worth it for a daily driver.  What about new bushings as well?

I'm looking for items that will give me a noticeable ride improvement FOR THE MONEY.  I don't want to spend $10,000 on one part that will give me a an improvement  I can barely feel.  Bang for the buck items only.

Thanks for any replies.

[Dan]

Check this kit out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8040000489

It's a master bushing replacement kit from Energy Suspensions. Good chit. You can prevent a lot of slop in the suspension by installing some of their bushings in place of the stock ones. I think that entire kit retails for less than it would cost you for control arms alone.

I would do shocks, struts, and springs, but don't waste too much money on them. Even something like Monroe's SensaTrac system would work fine for a daily driver for not a lot of money. When it comes to springs, you know we're all gonna say get H&R. My second choice would be Eibach.

[Chowder Head]

That says it's for 85-93 5.0's.  Will that still work on my 95?

I'll look into that.  I'm guessing it includes pictures on where exactly each piece goes?  Because I have no idea.

[Dan]

D'oh! Totally forgot about the year of your car. Well they make a kit for damn near every car on the road, I'm sure there's one for the '94-'98.

I've never done the entire kit, I've only installed their motor mounts/sway bar bushings/spring isolators (yeah that's hard) before, but I am under the assumption you might need the aid of a press to get some of the bushings in. Give Rico at the local auto repair shop a Chipotle burrito and a couple bucks and he might be able to help you out with that.

[Bwhitty799]

Strange Struts and Shocks work really well and are 10 way adjustable.  I don't know what you budget is but they work very well.  They are pretty cheap over on the corral.

[MFE]

For the love of all that is holy do NOT put Sensa-Craps on a V8 Mustang.

How "involved" suspension work is depends a lot on how deep you're going and how old the parts you're working on are.   Some people say "I can change LCA's in half an hour".  No, you f***ing can't if the car's ever seen a few winters, becuase the front bolts will be fused to the sleeves in the bushings and become a real PITA to get out.   Same goes for the A-arm bolts, most times they come out easy but for some people they're a real b****.  And in an SN95 you have to loosen the rack mounting bolts and pull the rack forward to get access to the front bolts on the A-arms.

Nothing you can't solve with penetrating oil, heat, and big f***in' wrenches most of the time. 

Struts are pretty easy but you'll need an impact wrench to get the top nuts loose.  If you don't have one and don't want to get one have a friendly shop zip them loose for you and then take the car home to finish the job yourself.

[Dan]

For the love of all that is holy do NOT put Sensa-Craps on a V8 Mustang.

Why you be hatin' on the Monroe struts? I definitely won't argue that ANYTHING else out there is better than Sensa-Trac items, but they're also 3x as much. Just tryin' to help the young'n keep his expenditures down.

Come to think of it, just look around the classifieds. Maybe you can find some used Koni's or what not for around the same price as new Sensa-Tracs.

[speedfreak87]

For the love of all that is holy do NOT put Sensa-Craps on a V8 Mustang.

How "involved" suspension work is depends a lot on how deep you're going and how old the parts you're working on are. Some people say "I can change LCA's in half an hour". No, you f***ing can't if the car's ever seen a few winters, becuase the front bolts will be fused to the sleeves in the bushings and become a real PITA to get out. Same goes for the A-arm bolts, most times they come out easy but for some people they're a real b****. And in an SN95 you have to loosen the rack mounting bolts and pull the rack forward to get access to the front bolts on the A-arms.

Nothing you can't solve with penetrating oil, heat, and big f***in' wrenches most of the time.

Struts are pretty easy but you'll need an impact wrench to get the top nuts loose. If you don't have one and don't want to get one have a friendly shop zip them loose for you and then take the car home to finish the job yourself.

Listen to this man CHowdown..

As far as for the rear, if you're going to take the time to replace the lowers, replace the uppers too, UPR and D&Dmotorsports have upper/lower kits you can purchase for a decent price..

[MFE]

For the love of all that is holy do NOT put Sensa-Craps on a V8 Mustang.

Why you be hatin' on the Monroe struts? I definitely won't argue that ANYTHING else out there is better than Sensa-Trac items, but they're also 3x as much. Just tryin' to help the young'n keep his expenditures down.

Come to think of it, just look around the classifieds. Maybe you can find some used Koni's or what not for around the same price as new Sensa-Tracs.

Because I worked closely with them for years.  Sensa Craps don't belong on ANY car with a sporting nature, nor any vehicle driven by anyone younger than 70.

I can't stand KYB's either due to my discriminating tastes LOL but for low-dough stock replacement, they're all anyone needs.