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Author Topic: I need a little help from any of you turbo guys?  (Read 995 times)
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« on: October 18, 2006, 02:08:36 PM »

Is this a good kit for my car?

-Precision polished PT-76 GT-Q Turbo with a .85 on-center exhaust housing
-1 3/4" headers and 2.5"collectors/crossover and 3" down pipe
-Tial 46mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow off valve
-Complete polished coldside and Intercooler
-90* degree oil adapter
-Turbosmart turbo boost controller
-Oil braided lines
-4" Inlet polished pipe for turbo inlet with K&N Filter
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« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2006, 02:11:46 PM »

If you're up for looking around forums and such, www.turbomustangs.com is a great resoruce.  Because frankly, I'm not sure anyone on this board has turbo experience.

I could be wrong.
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« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2006, 02:18:10 PM »

DO IT!!!!!!!

http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=70047.0

I'm going to be parting out the entire car, for now i'm going to start off with the turbo kit.

Turbo Technology twin turbo kit customized for SN95 w/ 4" inlet tube.  Twin Turbonetics T76 polished, w/ .58 housings, Ceramic Ball Bearing option, Q-TRIM.  Jet Hot black 2000 coating on the exhaust housings, headers, and downpipes.  Function7 fittings on both turbos on both inlet and drain.  Custom Intercooler with custom 3" and 4" piping which is routed through the fender up to the throttle body.  Intercooler is roughly 4.5" thick, 16" tall, and 26" wide.  HTS High Temp Silicone Connectors and T-Bolt clamps all around.  TIAL 50mm BOV on hot side of intercooler and it works great.  Chrome heat shields.  Two Turbonetics Racegates. Two 4" turbo filters, the ones that Kerry sold here on tm.com. Headers have diagonal bolt pattern for TFS high-ports.  Downpipes have v-band clamps a few inches after turbos, which makes everything a breeze to take apart.  And, another set of v-band clamps at the bottom of the downpipes which bolt up to the exhaust.  Can also sell entire exhaust consisting of Ultraflo mufflers.  And, a custom oil setup can be sold with it as well which splits up the oil line from one -4, into the two turbos, an several gauges along with the stock oil sending unit.

This turbo setup is no bulls***, fits SN95's PERFECTLY, and will make insane power.  Serious inquiries only!

Asking $6500 obo.  TurboSN95@sbcglobal.net

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« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2006, 02:25:15 PM »

Depends what shape it's in, how fast you want to go, how much HP you want to make, how much HP you can support, how much he wants for it, how much you can afford, if you have other available mode of transportation if you f*** something up...that's a good start. Cheesy
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« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2006, 02:34:48 PM »

how much for it
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« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2006, 02:51:47 PM »

Depends what shape it's in, how fast you want to go, how much HP you want to make, how much HP you can support, how much he wants for it, how much you can afford, if you have other available mode of transportation if you f*** something up...that's a good start. Cheesy
I will be trading my T-trim set-up and a S-trim head unit for it.
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« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2006, 03:22:27 PM »

Twin 76's.  Boy, what a good way to f*** up a turbo kit. 
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Steve Sisler
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« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2006, 05:08:42 AM »

Twin 76's.  Boy, what a good way to f*** up a turbo kit. 
Neah, the kit I am looking at is a single T-76
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« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2006, 05:12:29 AM »

Steve...want to elaborate some?
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« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2006, 02:18:40 PM »

Because it's f***ing retarded, and I don't mean "cool" retarded. 

It's a poor design, it's laggy, it creates a bunch more underhood heat, and it's going to make less power than a similarly sized single. 

The only time I when it is beneficial to run twins is when they are in a sequential setup (and even then it isn't great), or when you can't get a big enough single (like Tim Lynch's 532ci twin 106mm turbo monster). 

All he's going to do with twin 76's is make a big dyno number and have a car that isn't worth a s*** on the street, track, or anywhere else but a dyno. 

I'd take a single 91mm over that kit any day of the week. 
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« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2006, 04:28:18 PM »

Which kit is it?  The one the original poster posted?  Or Kevin posted?  Or did Kevin f*** up the thread with something unrelated again? LOL

In the original post, it made no mention of twins...unless Kevin's link is the same one.
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« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2006, 04:33:09 PM »

no, Steve's just bashing the one I posted.
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« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2006, 05:16:09 PM »

Hey Steve what about the one I posted?
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« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2006, 05:36:22 PM »

Eh, I think the primaries on the headers are a bit big, and the exhaust side on the turbo sounds a bit small, but that's just my opinion, I could be wrong. 

On the Y2K 88mm turbo car at work, which is 327ci with Twisted Wedge heads, it only uses 1 5/8" primaries. 

It should make about 1100rwhp through a glide once we're done tuning.  It's already made 900rwhp on 20psi, with no timing, tons of fuel, and spinning the tires on the dyno hard
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« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2006, 05:44:52 PM »

Eh, I think the primaries on the headers are a bit big, and the exhaust side on the turbo sounds a bit small, but that's just my opinion, I could be wrong. 

On the Y2K 88mm turbo car at work, which is 327ci with Twisted Wedge heads, it only uses 1 5/8" primaries. 

It should make about 1100rwhp through a glide once we're done tuning.  It's already made 900rwhp on 20psi, with no timing, tons of fuel, and spinning the tires on the dyno hard
I am building a dart block motor and looking to make 750-800 rwhp. Will that kit support that power? I am guessing I would have to change my entire exhaust set-up
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« Reply #15 on: October 19, 2006, 05:49:13 PM »

The turbo is good for ~900hp or so. 

If you're building a dart block motor, I'd go with an 88mm.  A 76mm is only going to piss you off.

You can go with a small frame 88mm and make 850ish to the tires, depending on the transmission. 

For your sake, I hope the transmission rhymes with Powerglide. 

Furthermore, for that power level and above, I'd use an underdash air-to-water intercooler rather than the air-to-air. 

I take it the car is going to be setup to drag race, correct?
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« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2006, 05:54:20 PM »

The turbo is good for ~900hp or so. 

If you're building a dart block motor, I'd go with an 88mm.  A 76mm is only going to piss you off.

You can go with a small frame 88mm and make 850ish to the tires, depending on the transmission. 

For your sake, I hope the transmission rhymes with Powerglide. 

Furthermore, for that power level and above, I'd use an underdash air-to-water intercooler rather than the air-to-air. 

I take it the car is going to be setup to drag race, correct?
Nope. a street car. I will be running my TKO tranny
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« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2006, 06:33:38 PM »

As far as that housing Steve mentioned, you can probably sell that one off and get the right one.  You'd have to look at compressor maps and s*** to get it right. 
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« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2006, 06:46:10 PM »

Agreed on the twins being overkill on that motor.  I've got a buddy with a Turbo on a 598 CID motor in a lightning running something just over 100mm thrugh a C6 with a Gear Vendors overdrive and it's sweet. 
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« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2006, 08:35:36 PM »

Nope. a street car. I will be running my TKO tranny

Heheheh, yeah right. 

Let me know how that goes after you toast your first eight clutches and can't get the car out of the 11's. 
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« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2006, 09:50:15 PM »

As far as that housing Steve mentioned, you can probably sell that one off and get the right one.  You'd have to look at compressor maps and s*** to get it right. 
Where is that info?
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« Reply #21 on: October 20, 2006, 07:04:45 AM »

As far as that housing Steve mentioned, you can probably sell that one off and get the right one.  You'd have to look at compressor maps and s*** to get it right. 
Where is that info?

What are your goals with this car? 

Do you want a dyno queen?  Do you want a car that turns a good 1/4 mile?  Road racer?  I need to know these things. 
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« Reply #22 on: October 20, 2006, 07:40:07 AM »

Sisler, did you go back to work for SCT or somethign?
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« Reply #23 on: October 20, 2006, 07:52:01 AM »

Yeah, you must have missed that. 

They made it worth my time, and then some. 
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« Reply #24 on: October 20, 2006, 07:52:58 AM »

Congrats man.

Great news.
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« Reply #25 on: October 20, 2006, 07:59:26 AM »

big turbo + 5spd... thats a piss poor idea if I ever heard one.  You need an auto, a NASTY one like a glide.  Once you get into the boost you don't want to be screwing around pressing the clutch in.  You'll end up with lag every time you shift the damn thing.

Turbo setups.... auto, transbrake, long gear.  Enough gear to go 150mph+ in 8 seconds Smiley Smiley
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« Reply #26 on: October 20, 2006, 08:07:14 AM »

Agreed, pretty much all serious drag cars are going to end up Autos eventually.  Shifting gears is fun and all, but it upsets the car and most people aren't worth a damn at it. 
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« Reply #27 on: October 20, 2006, 08:31:24 AM »

Like I said before, any sizeable turbo and a stick equals lots of busted clutches (at $600+ a pop) and very poor ET's compared to the power level. 
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« Reply #28 on: October 20, 2006, 09:11:03 AM »

As far as that housing Steve mentioned, you can probably sell that one off and get the right one.  You'd have to look at compressor maps and s*** to get it right. 
Where is that info?

What are your goals with this car? 

Do you want a dyno queen?  Do you want a car that turns a good 1/4 mile?  Road racer?  I need to know these things. 
It is going to be mainly used on the street with an occasional trip to the track. So, what is the diferrence in a 750-800 rwhp supercharged car compared to a turbo one on a 5-speed. I know there is guys in the 9's with a 5-speed.
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« Reply #29 on: October 20, 2006, 12:07:57 PM »

Because a turbo is based off load and not rpm. 
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