Yes a fart can muffler cheater pipe.

If ya lived closer man I could get someone at the shop do it on the side for $100.  Anything I didn't feel like messing with I paid a small fee for and had them do it. 

I stand by what I said about building an engine.  Not to mention the fact that nowadays it is infinitely cheaper to buy an engine ready to go than it is to build it.  Cara's engine is still down over 100rwhp from where it was before.  I don't see belt slip and tuning picking that up. 

What you fail to see, Dave, is that we've got more than enough work to keep us busy if we quit taking cars in for a month. 

What you also don't see are the kids that tried to do it themselves, or took it to someone to do it on the side because they'd do it cheaper. 

Case in point.  I have a customer who is a bit of a penny pincher.  We charge $250 to install gears, he asked around for a month until he could find someone to do it cheaper (I'm guessing around $125).  I'm not going to mention names, but let's just say he built a few "Timebomb" cars (hint hint). 

Kid drives 2.5 hours to get the gears installed, gets it done, pays the guy, and then drives home with the rearend howling. 

Called me up the next day to ask how much it would cost for us to just set the gear pattern up correctly.  Once I had verified that he had put more than a mile or two on it, I told him he was f***ed. 

So now, because he wanted to save roughly fifty bucks (not counting his lost time), it will cost him the cost of the first gear install, two sets of gears, the $20.00 in synthetic fluid plus new fluid, plus our labor to replace all the stuff, not counting any bearings that might be f***ed up in the process. 

This is not an isolated incident.  I would say probably 30-50% of the cars in our lot are there because their owners did not know what they were doing and had their friends on the internet tell them they could do it easily. 

As I said before, Dave, if he f***s this up, are you going to fly down and fix it for him for free?  You have no responsibility in this action, but if he pays a reputable party to do it, they do. 

I don't need to dig into open wounds on the LT1, but you've had similar experiences. 

Timebomb.   I wouldn't let that guy touch my car for free, never mind pay him to work on something.  Which is why I prefer to do all my own work.  You never know what kind of moron you're going to get on the other end wrenching on your car unless you personally know that person and their skills, and that they don't take shortcuts.

Certain things I wouldn't recommend people do based on what I've seen of their abilities; but I can't see too much going wrong on a clutch install.  That's just me though.  I do see where you are coming from on all these people that get in over their heads.  Sounds like there are enough people in the area to help him out if he gets in a pinch, as well as plenty of people around here to walk him through s*** should he need it.

You don't learn to work on a car by paying someone else to do it.  I would not recommend he go install gears, I'm not saying that. 

Don't try and point the finger at me about the LT1.  I didn't build it yet I'm still dealing with the problems.

Hmmmmmm

What does tranny s*** smell like?  Normal s***?

How do you replace tranny s***?

Just out of curiosity, what kind of headers are they?

If you're just going to have the flywheel surfaced, plan on being down for a day if they can't get it done in an hour or so and are actually open on a Saturday if you do it on the weekend.

Pilot bushing can be bought from any parts store. If you haven't done polyurethane engine and transmission mounts, now would be a good time to do them. When putting the LTs on, don't tighten them before putting the bellhousing back on because it'll be a bit tighter fit trying to get the bell back in with them hanging there. It's also a good time to replace u-joints if they've never been changed.

If Kevin is kind enough to help you, I'd say go for it.  For someone who's been through the process a couple times, it's pretty easy.  

Impact tools are a bonus, but if you don't have 'em, do what Andy said and use PB blaster.

As far as the L/Ts... are you thinking about installing these with a stock K-member?

They'll fit fine with the stock k-member.

Summitracing.com is the best place to get the mounts. Get the Energy Suspension mounts...you can get the engine and trans mounts as a kit.

Lots of people say that aluminum flywheels aren't great for the street. They take a little getting used to because you have to slip the clutch a little more since there isn't as much weight to keep the engine revved up when taking off from a stop. It'll make the engine rev a good bit quicker and make it feel much more peppy. They do cost a pretty penny though. Without many engine mods it may not be worth the extra cost. If you do buy an al. flywheel or a billet steel one, make absolute sure you're getting a 50oz imbalance!!! I ended up with a 28oz imbalance flywheel and it shook the engine like it had parkinsons.

FYI to all, SteAve must not be so good at math.  370 - 369 = 1  RWHP

My non-broken in motor is at the same horsepower that my old setup with a goofy dyno cal was at.

You don't need that much clutch Michael.  The King Cobra kit will do you fine.  I ordered a Billet flywheel, King Cobra clutch kit, and a pilot bearing from D&D and it was less than $400 to my door. 

Michael, I like the Stage II for my application, noticable improvement over stock.  The manufacturing wasn't too impressive, I had to send it back a couple times before I got a good disk, but the Spec people were very helpful once I sent them the measurements of the hub. 

The King Cobra clutch is holding up very well in my car. If you're not going HCI with supercharger then it will do you very well.