Clutch replacement - never done it befo'

[Mr. White]

Is it a good idea for a first timer to tackle solo?

[Chris Wilson]

Taint exactly rocket science, if you got the time and everything under that car doesn't look like it's been in the ocean for years, why not. 

[ELB 1]

Taint exactly rocket science, if you got the time and everything under that car doesn't look like it's been in the ocean for years, why not. 

X2

You seem like you have some common sense so you should be ok.  If you need any help, call steAve at work.

[MdniteDrftr]

This belongs in tech

[Mr. White]

I'm thumbing through a Haynes manual as we speak and it looks like the h-pipe removal may be the biggest pain involved. I'm assuming a Spec Stage 1 is a decent enough replacement clutch so I'm going with it. Also picked up a set Tokico Blues and MM caster camber plate.

Springs are also on the way. Now it's gettin' fun!

[Chowder Head]

Good idea? Here's how simply it really is.




I JUST DID ONE.

[ELB 1]

Good idea? Here's how simply it really is.




I JUST DID ONE.

Better you said it and not anyone else.

[MdniteDrftr]

This belongs in tech

Doesnt anyone listen to me?!

[Chowder Head]

But seriously, it's not that hard at all. It only took me a while because I didn't have a lot of time to work on it since I had school and junk.

My h-pipe wasn't really that bad. Just use some PB Blaster the night before if you wish and then have at it the next day. If you can, position the socket wrench so you can get your foot on it, then brace your arms onto something secure and push your foot in until it breaks loose. The rest is basically the dismantling stage.

[TireSmoke]

screw using a spec 1... get at least a spec 2.  Trust me been there done that.  Granted, I do 5500rpm launches on drag radials... but still the spec 1 clutch is little more than a stock replacement.

It'll be a pain if you are not on a lift.  Getting at the front h-pipe bolts can be a pain and getting the pipe back on may require that you loosen your header.  Loosen your driveshaft bolts while the rear tires are on the ground.  The torque wrench is your friend.  See if you can borrow a slide hammer to get your old pilot bearing out.  Might as well replace that along with your rear main seal while you are down there.  Now would be a good time to disconnect your thermactor system if you wanted to discontinue using it.  IDK... its a relatively simple procedure if you take it one bolt at a time.  If you think about it as a whole task you can get discouraged.  Its basically an exhaust swap and tranny swap all wrapped into one.

[Dan]

If you can, position the socket wrench so you can get your foot on it, then brace your arms onto something secure and push your foot in until it breaks loose. The rest is basically the dismantling stage.

I find this is the quickest way to destroy socket wrenches and/or break the socket. It MIGHT work, but I wouldn't advise it. Jack the car up and use a piece of pipe if you can before going this route.

And I second the Stage 2. 1 is a stock replacement in a sense.

[BadAndy]

For the driving Craig will probably be doing with the car there's no reason to spend the extra money on a slightly heavier racing clutch. Unless he's planning on a supercharger soon, then I take that back and say go for the Spec 2.

[Chris Wilson]

I had the King Cobra equivalent in my 93 with Alum heads, 3.73s, all the bolt ons, yada yada yada, plenty of clutch for it.  Make sure you resurface your flywheel.  I opted for a billet steel one from D&D, Clutch disc, Pressure plate, TO bearing, Pilot bearing, Flywheel, all were right around $400 to my door. 

[GotTorque?]

Make sure the disk slides easily on the input shaft before installing.  Like said before, have your flywheel resurfaced and get new TO and pilop bearings.

Oh, and don't let Andy near your car with a socket and welder. 

[David Claflin]

I use a spec stage 1 on mine and it works fine, I use slicks too. I even used one on my 351 in the LTD wagon, unless you're stepping up to a blower and slicks later you should be fine with it.

[Chowder Head]

If you can, position the socket wrench so you can get your foot on it, then brace your arms onto something secure and push your foot in until it breaks loose. The rest is basically the dismantling stage.

I find this is the quickest way to destroy socket wrenches and/or break the socket. It MIGHT work, but I wouldn't advise it. Jack the car up and use a piece of pipe if you can before going this route.

And I second the Stage 2. 1 is a stock replacement in a sense.

I don't know man. If you do it right, it's just the same as pushing on the socket with your arms; only with a lot more power. When you push it with your foot, make sure everything is secure and not wobbling at all and you'll be straight.

Oh, and for the pilot bearing, use soap shavings. Trust me. Get yourself a bar of ordinary soap, make some fine pieces with a  knife and keep shoving them into the hole until it's basically full. Then just put a socket with an extension in it, smack it with a hammer, and it will come right out. I tried the grease method and the only thing that did was leave a huge mess for me to clean up.

I seriously just did this stuff a few weeks ago so if you have any questions DOT, just ask.

[Mr. White]

I appreciate the offer man