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Author Topic: 3g Alternator?  (Read 2529 times)
BadAndy
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« on: June 11, 2006, 09:04:59 PM »

What does it take to upgrade the stock alt to a 3g? Just buy an alternator for a '94-'95 5.0, modify the bracket so it will fit, wiring??
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J. D.
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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2006, 10:45:17 PM »

I'll show you when I come up. 
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J. D.
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« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2006, 11:27:11 PM »

I bought my 130 amp Powermaster separately, I think from Summit.  Powermaster part number 47758.

http://powermastermotorsports.com/ford_late_model.html

This came with the unit.  Puts out a little above the advertised rating.



And bought the kit from these guys.  I just called them and told them what I had, and they shipped me everything else.  You could probably make your own kit, but I did it the simple way, even though it cost me a few more bucks.

This is the link if you want to buy a lesser stock type replacement alternator from them as well.
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=3

This is if you just want the kit:
http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=65

There were differences of opinion on whether to run the kit in parallel with my factory wiring as per PA's install directions, or to run it stand-alone and disconnect the factory wiring altogether.  That the factory wiring could not handle the current draw if the PA harness was to fail.  I decided to go ahead and run it in parallel.  Both have circuit protection (fusible link in the factory wiring and a 200 amp fuse in the PA Performance harness).  It's been three years, no problems so far.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2006, 12:03:37 AM by Dozer » Logged
J. D.
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2006, 11:45:16 PM »

As for the bracket.............

And you should only have to notch the bracket a little back where the rear of the 3G case hits it.  It won't bolt in properly if your don't (the top hole won't line up)



or end up doing like I did and buy a March alternator bracket.   Grin
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Michelle
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« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2006, 01:43:57 AM »

If you still need to know, a friend of mine had a kick ass tutorial he wrote up. His email addy is oneslow50@hotmail.com.
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Michelle
tmoss
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« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2006, 06:03:44 AM »

pa-performace.com has a good illustarted one too
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Tom (Torque) Moss
88 5spd GT vert, 2 1/2" Flowmasters,Pro5.0 shifter, KBrown Chassis kit, 3:08s. , stock cam advanced 4°, NMRA prepped F/S GT40P heads with 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake/TB/injectors with ported lower.  277RWHP/330RWTQ

www.fastlanecars.com
BadAndy
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« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2006, 11:50:18 PM »

Anybody have experience or heard anything about this one?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PWM%2D8%2D47140&N=4294908331+4294908282+4294924928+4294840126+4294925143+4294839060+4294880701+115&autoview=sku

It looks as though it bolts up directly in place of the stocker...
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BetterDays
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« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2006, 12:12:32 AM »

Looks like mine.
I did the one wire though.
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BadAndy
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« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2006, 01:52:17 AM »

Is there a big difference between the stock configuration (where do all the wires go anyways??) and going to one wire config?
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BetterDays
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« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2006, 05:37:36 AM »

One wire - one wire to hookup and that was it.  Unfortunately, you lose the volt gauge.

However, I believe they do include instructions on utilizing the stock gauges and the pigtail to keep it functional (3-4 wires total)

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BadAndy
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« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2006, 01:53:43 PM »

Think this one would work well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-130-Amp-Alternator-6G-1980-02-CHROME_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33573QQihZ004QQitemZ140006899671QQrdZ1
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BetterDays
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« Reply #11 on: July 16, 2006, 02:37:22 PM »

No idea.

I bought a 140A from Summit and installed it in a matter of minutes.

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speedfreak87
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« Reply #12 on: July 16, 2006, 06:20:49 PM »

I have (or had) a 3g in my 87 and my volt guage worked fine.
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BetterDays
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« Reply #13 on: July 16, 2006, 06:51:58 PM »

I have (or had) a 3g in my 87 and my volt guage worked fine.

Did you use a 1-wire set-up?

Besides, mine never worked, but I read about a lot of people that had issues after going 1-wire.
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speedfreak87
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« Reply #14 on: July 16, 2006, 07:09:22 PM »

hell if I know.. it's been so damn long....
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BadAndy
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« Reply #15 on: July 17, 2006, 07:57:37 AM »

I ended up getting this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=140007913655&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Now I just need to get a new power cable...
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tmoss
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« Reply #16 on: July 17, 2006, 11:58:22 AM »

Yeah, I had to chuckle - the add says "no need to rewire".  One of the problems with the 2g is the Black/ORange power connectors at the alternator tends to overheat and melt at 60 amps, I wonder what it will do at 140 amps.  Also the two Black/Orange output wires of the 60amp unit need to be replaced with the proper guage wire (#4 or #2 wire) to keep them from melting the jackets off.  The two Black/Orange wires then get attached together and wrapped with electrical tape.
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Tom (Torque) Moss
88 5spd GT vert, 2 1/2" Flowmasters,Pro5.0 shifter, KBrown Chassis kit, 3:08s. , stock cam advanced 4°, NMRA prepped F/S GT40P heads with 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake/TB/injectors with ported lower.  277RWHP/330RWTQ

www.fastlanecars.com
BadAndy
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« Reply #17 on: July 17, 2006, 02:34:28 PM »

Do you have a diagram of how every thing is supposed to be wired up? Where can I get these new wires from?
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tmoss
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« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2006, 03:15:45 PM »

pa-performace.com has a how-to for the 3G that will apply pretty much to yours too.  A good car audio store would have some good #2 or #4 wire.
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Tom (Torque) Moss
88 5spd GT vert, 2 1/2" Flowmasters,Pro5.0 shifter, KBrown Chassis kit, 3:08s. , stock cam advanced 4°, NMRA prepped F/S GT40P heads with 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake/TB/injectors with ported lower.  277RWHP/330RWTQ

www.fastlanecars.com
BadAndy
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« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2006, 06:41:33 AM »

Well, I've got the new alternator that is supposed to be 140a installed. At idle (around 800rpms or so) it gets up to about 14.3 volts at the battery...when I turn on Max AC and set it to the highest fan speed, with the headlights on the voltage at the batter drops to about 12.2-12.25. Is that normal?? I figured with this alternator that it would keep the voltage up??

How do you check the amperage output?
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BetterDays
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« Reply #20 on: July 26, 2006, 04:21:01 PM »

At that RPM, yes. 

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tmoss
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« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2006, 03:08:14 PM »

gotta get some more rpm for it to put out more with all that on - maybe 1,500 or so it should be back up to ~13.0 volts.  That's a lot of load!
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Tom (Torque) Moss
88 5spd GT vert, 2 1/2" Flowmasters,Pro5.0 shifter, KBrown Chassis kit, 3:08s. , stock cam advanced 4°, NMRA prepped F/S GT40P heads with 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake/TB/injectors with ported lower.  277RWHP/330RWTQ

www.fastlanecars.com
ReefBlueCoupe
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« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2007, 07:13:04 AM »

I used the PA setup that comes with the alternator and the long power cable. 

When you are grinding the bracket for alternator clearance, it's best to remove it from the engine because it gets tiny aluminum shavings everywhere.  Even if you cover the engine, they still float in the air, get on the paint body, in the garage, etc.  Not good if you're anal about your stuff like I am.  Remove and take it far away from everything to clearance it.
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