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Author Topic: 1500 RPM Studder  (Read 2249 times)
Bwhitty799
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« on: November 15, 2006, 09:11:17 AM »

Hello guys,
I recently change my upper and lower intake on my 1993 LX to a Cobra intake. This same intake was on my 1990 GT before I put the 331 in. The install went perfect with no problems along the way. But when I currently start the car it idles at about 1000 RPM and goes down slowly, theat is not my problem really. When driving the car in just about every gear at about 1500 RPM it studders really bad, but pulls through the gears fine when pulling out from a stop (pretty much cruise speed). Also after it gets warm it sometimes shuts off on me when coming to a stop. The volt meter acts crazy by going up and down drastically and then shuts off, which fires right back up and runs then. I am wondering if anyone knows of a fix that would cure these problems. I checked the TPS and cleaned the IAC, plus looked for leaks along the way by squirting carb cleaner around the upper and lower.

Any help would be great.

Thanks
Brandon
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Brandon
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2006, 10:42:01 AM »

vacuum leak somewhere
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If an American is to amount to anything he must rely upon himself, and not upon the State; he must take pride in his work, instead of sitting idle to envy the luck of others. He must face life with resolute courage, win victory if he can, and accept defeat if he must, without seeking to place on his fellow man a responsibility which isn't theirs-TR
Bwhitty799
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2006, 11:01:29 AM »

I checked for leaks though. Hit it up with carb cleaner
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Brandon
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quake101
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« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2006, 07:24:45 AM »

Couldn't the MAF cause this also?

I'm asking cuz I had "bucking" problems before, and it was at a RPM range. The whole care would "hop" if you keep it there, but run fine. I didn't have the stalling problems tho.

I changed my MAF and the problem went away.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2006, 07:26:44 AM by quake101 » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2006, 05:28:49 AM »

with the volt meter going crazy, I think you have an electriclal problem - that sure as heck will make it run bad and cause it to shut down.
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Tom (Torque) Moss
88 5spd GT vert, 2 1/2" Flowmasters,Pro5.0 shifter, KBrown Chassis kit, 3:08s. , stock cam advanced 4°, NMRA prepped F/S GT40P heads with 1.7 rockers, MAC P headers Jet-Hot coated, 97 Exlporer intake/TB/injectors with ported lower.  277RWHP/330RWTQ

www.fastlanecars.com
Bwhitty799
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« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2006, 12:50:50 PM »

The thing is it was fine before I put the intake on. The parts that I used were off of my 1990 Gt which worked great. I might have too replace it with the IAC and TPS off of the 1993 and see if it works better. The MAF was on before I replaced the other items.
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Brandon
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2006, 11:14:37 AM »

Got it to idle now. Set screw on TB was not correct. Changed plus, wires, cap, rotor, coil, and switched to alum. driveshaft. Still has the same problems as before. I am stumped.
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Brandon
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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2006, 07:25:05 AM »

It's your center A/C vents.  I'm sure of it.  They need to be removed immediately and sent to me.   Grin
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« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2006, 08:16:12 AM »

check the module on the distibuter,mine was doing the same thing and that was the problem cause it would do it when the car heated up
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2006, 08:42:57 AM »

check the module on the distibuter,mine was doing the same thing and that was the problem cause it would do it when the car heated up

I changed that as well.
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Brandon
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« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2006, 08:43:30 AM »

It's your center A/C vents.  I'm sure of it.  They need to be removed immediately and sent to me.   Grin
Yup. POS LOL

Anyway could the fuel pressure be too low at 41??
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Brandon
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« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2006, 08:38:13 PM »

It's your center A/C vents.  I'm sure of it.  They need to be removed immediately and sent to me.   Grin
Yup. POS LOL

Anyway could the fuel pressure be too low at 41??
If that is with the vacuum on then it is to high.  I run mine around 32
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2006, 08:17:45 PM »

Found out that wires are pulling out of the TPS sensor. I think that could cause a problem.
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Brandon
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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2007, 08:53:51 PM »

Got it to run better but still a slight miss.
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Brandon
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« Reply #14 on: January 07, 2007, 01:11:52 PM »

Does it have any codes??
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If an American is to amount to anything he must rely upon himself, and not upon the State; he must take pride in his work, instead of sitting idle to envy the luck of others. He must face life with resolute courage, win victory if he can, and accept defeat if he must, without seeking to place on his fellow man a responsibility which isn't theirs-TR
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« Reply #15 on: January 15, 2007, 06:09:49 AM »

No there are no codes that I pulled. Strange
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Brandon
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« Reply #16 on: January 15, 2007, 06:19:30 AM »

Have you replaced any of the alternator wiring or any other main wiring?
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #17 on: January 15, 2007, 08:57:33 AM »

No. Everything is stock electric wise. Alternator, starter. I noticed the the air conditioner compressor clutch is bad, would that cause this??
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Brandon
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« Reply #18 on: January 15, 2007, 03:36:40 PM »

How do you know it's bad? It's a possibility...try bypassing the AC with a short belt just to see if that fixes it.
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #19 on: January 16, 2007, 04:09:46 AM »

Well the thing makes a horrible noise when it is on and don't get cool. I need to look for a short belt. Any idea what size I would need.
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Brandon
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« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2007, 06:01:15 AM »

I don't know what size belt but the easiest thing to do is get some string and wrap it around the pulleys in the same way the belt would go, minus the AC, then measure it.
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2007, 06:14:02 AM »

I think 50 resto has belts that measure the size. With AC w/o AC.  I hope it fixes it.  Last night If you play with the Distributor, by advacing the timing or retarding the timing it will run better with the Dist. all the way retarded. Would this mean that the Distributor is a tooth off. I put it in the same place I had it when I took it out.
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Brandon
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« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2007, 11:28:00 AM »

It could be a tooth off. You might want to reset it correctly though just for the hell of it.
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quake101
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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2007, 12:50:26 PM »

Well the thing makes a horrible noise when it is on and don't get cool. I need to look for a short belt. Any idea what size I would need.

http://www.badassmustangs.com/tech/doku.php?id=87-93_5.0_short_belt_routing
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2007, 08:29:54 AM »

Thanks
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Brandon
1990 GT
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2000 CBR 600
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #25 on: January 25, 2007, 05:55:31 PM »

Pulled codes

Got
67
81
82
85
84
29
33

I have no smog on the car. Thinking it has to do with the EGR valve.
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Brandon
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« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2007, 07:37:58 PM »

Is the EGR valve hooked up? I pulled the smog pump off my car and it doesn't stutter.
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #27 on: January 26, 2007, 04:06:44 AM »

Yeah it is. I think the 33 & 67 have to do with thr EGR.
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Brandon
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« Reply #28 on: January 26, 2007, 05:14:34 AM »

How does the EGR work on the pre-94 5.0s? I know on my Cobra it had a tube from the header to the EGR valve but not on my '91.
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Bwhitty799
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« Reply #29 on: January 26, 2007, 05:31:43 AM »

The EGR is on the Upper intake right at the throttle body. I think it only works when you are on the gas part throttle (where my problem is).  It does not function at WOT or Idle.  I replaced the EGR with my 1990 and this is what was on now and still doing the same.  I hope to pickup a new EGR and it fixes the problem.
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Brandon
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