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RADARLV
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« on: October 13, 2007, 01:28:31 PM » |
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02 V8 - develops ticking on right bank but only after extended warm up. Compression tests and blow thru test are fine. I have replaced the tappets thinking that one of them was somehow mutant but the ticking comes back after the engine is well warmed up. This is a recent development and not something over time. Plugs show no unusual wear and are all alike.
Timing chain guides? Timing chain itself? Does anybody out there have experience with this probem or can offer a solution?
Thanks!
VNAMUS 1 - California
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BadAndy
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« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2007, 06:58:48 PM » |
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What oil are you using?
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Arrgorndenethor
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« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2007, 07:13:14 PM » |
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i get ticking sounds from mine also on the right side on my 96 gt, i figure its high mileage wear and other factors relating to abuse  , i use 5-30 royal purple |
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Dan
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« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2007, 07:15:22 PM » |
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Just make sure it's not something simple like a header gasket that blew apart. Although I doubt it if it only does it when warm. Every time mine went (go crappy BBK flanges!) it was there hot or cold.
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RADARLV
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« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2007, 10:07:26 PM » |
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Redline 20-50.
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BadAndy
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« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2007, 10:22:10 PM » |
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Uhhh...that's a bit thick for a mod motor.
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Chris Wilson
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« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2007, 10:34:24 PM » |
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Agreed, you need to be using 5-20 or 5-30.
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RADARLV
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2007, 11:39:08 PM » |
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MM&FF and others rate RL oil as the best in the biz. Now that the oil situation is cleared up...are there technical suggestions on the noise. Thank you.
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BadAndy
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« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2007, 11:44:10 PM » |
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Redline is good stuff, you're just using too thick an oil.
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Arrgorndenethor
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« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2007, 11:57:05 PM » |
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so my royal purple is no good  |
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BadAndy
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2007, 12:18:04 AM » |
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Too thick of an oil is not good! Royal Purple, Red Line, etc...are all excellent oils, just use the right weight oil.
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David Claflin
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« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2007, 06:08:50 AM » |
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Uhhh...that's a bit thick for a mod motor.
INdeed, I wonder what the oil pressure is on cold start? |
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If an American is to amount to anything he must rely upon himself, and not upon the State; he must take pride in his work, instead of sitting idle to envy the luck of others. He must face life with resolute courage, win victory if he can, and accept defeat if he must, without seeking to place on his fellow man a responsibility which isn't theirs-TR
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EVIL5LITER
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« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2007, 07:26:07 AM » |
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Rod bearing.
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Steve Sisler
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RADARLV
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« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2007, 08:55:03 AM » |
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Car is located in So Cal desert area. Temps in October are still 90+. I appreciate the oil advice and will thin it out at next change but back to the ticking noise. The sound is isolated to upper right bank and only comes on when the engine is very warmed up. Temperatures are OK. Has anybody else experienced this? Thanks.
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Ralph
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« Reply #14 on: October 14, 2007, 10:04:11 AM » |
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Ford had lots of problems with timing chain tensioners and the dreaded 'click' early on it, but they were supposed to have corrected it.
The tensioners in there are spring and hydraulic so incorrect oil pressure or blockage can prevent them from keeping the chain tight. For some reason, this is always mentioned on the right side as well.
How many miles are on this thing?
I would first run the thinner oil. A partial blockage going to that tensioner could be turning into a full blockage with thicker oil. If that doesn't help (or ever before you do that), get a stethoscope and go over that side of the motor and isolate it.
If it's only in the front, around the TC, then you probably have a tensioner or chain issue.
If it's in the middle, you have bigger issues.
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Mr. White
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« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2007, 10:14:00 AM » |
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Man, this guy must be new. Tech questions?  |
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"You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas "
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David Claflin
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« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2007, 03:42:23 PM » |
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Man, this guy must be new. Tech questions? Carzy huh, he acts as if no body ever goes into tech. |
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If an American is to amount to anything he must rely upon himself, and not upon the State; he must take pride in his work, instead of sitting idle to envy the luck of others. He must face life with resolute courage, win victory if he can, and accept defeat if he must, without seeking to place on his fellow man a responsibility which isn't theirs-TR
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RADARLV
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« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2007, 08:13:33 PM » |
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Got Tork - thanks for the good detail.
As far as the tech section...well, the dates tell the story....
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RADARLV
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« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2007, 08:16:18 PM » |
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Correction - thanks to Ralph.
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Arrgorndenethor
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« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2007, 08:18:24 PM » |
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so where is your noise coming from? i also get alot of injector noise too which sounds similar to a valve ticking
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RADARLV
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« Reply #20 on: October 14, 2007, 08:23:08 PM » |
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The noise is a solid clicking noise in the right bank. It sounds like its in the valve train and only after the engine is well warmed up. I let it idle for 30 minutes before the noise comes on but then the noise is evident over the exhaust and whine of the blower. Thanks.
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Mr. White
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« Reply #21 on: October 14, 2007, 08:34:11 PM » |
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Got Tork - thanks for the good detail.
As far as the tech section...well, the dates tell the story....
I'm not sure I care for your tone, mister. |
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"You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas "
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BSL
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« Reply #22 on: October 14, 2007, 08:43:55 PM » |
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Hate to suggest it, but Sisler might be right. Whats the mileage and what blower are you running?
Is it a stock motor?
Ticking on startup would indicate a chain tensioner problem.
Since the noise is after warmup, its probably not a chain related problem.
I would want to eliminate any accesories by taking the belt off and trying it again.
Have a real good listen from underneath, and make sure its NOT coming from the crank. Use a stethescope if you can get your hands on one.
If you really think its a valve related problem, then it probably is.
Listen real close and try to determine if the noise is happening every time the engine rotates or every other time... a trained ear can usually tell the diff between a valve and rod/crank noise.
Since you already replaced all the 'tappets' and it made no difference, it looks like your into head removal at the very least.
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Gareth  |
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BadAndy
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« Reply #23 on: October 14, 2007, 08:54:12 PM » |
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Try changing it to lower weight oil first.
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Mr. White
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« Reply #24 on: October 14, 2007, 08:59:56 PM » |
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Yeah really. I think the weight of the oil may be a factor.
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"You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas "
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RADARLV
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« Reply #25 on: October 14, 2007, 10:52:47 PM » |
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Thanks BL and Ralph for the assistance. This will be my checklist for this week.
65k miles and the blower is a ProCharger PS1SC @ 8 #s (tho I never see more than 4# because of large exhaust). Other mods (relevant) include 3 bay intercooler, 40# injectors and Anderson Ford intake.
Other ideas welcome.
My 'tone' is to fix my car...
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EVIL5LITER
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« Reply #26 on: October 15, 2007, 10:10:38 AM » |
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Now I'm sure it's a rod bearing. Or a hurt piston.
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Steve Sisler
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BSL
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« Reply #27 on: October 15, 2007, 10:45:09 AM » |
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Try changing it to lower weight oil first.
Haha might as well get some thicker hood insulation while your at it! Sorry man, but Ive never ever seen thick oil cause an engine knock. Higher weight conventional oils COULD be the cause of a delayed hydraulic lifter, (or chain tensioner) being pumped up on a cold engine. Maybe. This guy is using full synthetic, which keeps its viscosity despite temperature change. What makes you think oil could cause this? |
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Gareth |
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BadAndy
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« Reply #28 on: October 15, 2007, 10:47:37 AM » |
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Magic.
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RADARLV
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« Reply #29 on: October 15, 2007, 11:37:44 AM » |
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Update on engine - we disconnected each cylinder coil one by one. This should have made the knock go away (or reduce) if it were in the bottom end of the engine at that cylinder. Inclined to eliminate rod bearing as suspect. Also, stethoscope tells us that its in the top right side. Will change to 5 - 50 oil and try again. Lots of info point to chain tensioner or that area.
Ralph's info checks with info on another site.
Evil5Liter - Your thoughts on rod bearing with this info?
Thanks!
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