trouble codes

[hbombblack]

I installed a new wiring harness from painless and i got these trouble codes

23-TPS out of Self-Test range
31-EVP circuit below minimum voltage
67-manuel lever position sensor out of range, neutral pressure switch circuit open
81-air bypass solenoid
82-air bypass solenoid
85
84-EGR Vaccum Regualtor circuit failure
95


Ok, I got rid of the smog system so that explains why I have error code 31,81,82, and 84. Now how do I clear these codes?

For error code 23 what do I need to do to clear this code?

What are error codes 85 and 95 and what do I need to do for these codes?

Also, when I start the engine up my car rev's very high, then it goes down to almost stall, then back up and so fourth. Is this because of error code 23?

[J. D.]

If I had to make a guess (and alls this is is a guess)........... I'd say you forgot to plug something in, or ground something when installing that new harness.  Thats all sounds like passenger side stuff, and it all may use the same branch of the harness, voltage supply, or ground point.

That's the only commonality I can see in the failures.

[J. D.]

Also, when I unplugged my cannister on my Fox, I also pop a TPS code.  Unplugging the smog may have also taken the other stuff out of the loop.

[hbombblack]

How did you bypass these codes?

[J. D.]

I had to take a little while and shake the cobwebs out, before I got back to you.  It's been a while since I've run my codes. 

I'm pretty sure I'm still popping 44 (Problems in thermactor Air Control System) and 94 (Thermactor Air System, problems on right side bank) for not having my smog installed.  I still have the controllers on the fenderwell, and they are still plugged in.  I just live with these codes,  and am really not sure if they can be bypassed.

Earlier I mentioned unplugging my cannister and then popping more codes.  I popped a 23 (TPS selftest voltage out of range), a 34 (EGR selftest voltage out of range, and I think an 85 for the cannister.  I've been told I shouldn't have popped those codes for unplugging the cannister, but they went away when I plugged it back in.

I'll get out there this weekend and unplug it again and see what happens.

[hbombblack]

Dozer,

Am I correct in thinking that the engine will run rough with the trouble codes for the smog system? Cause I really don't want to search in the heap of parts that I took out and/or buy new solenoids for the smog system.

[J. D.]

I'm no EEC expert, by any stretch of the imagination.  I only know how things affected my car.  I wish someone more knowledgeable would chime in.   

Not having smog had no adverse affect on the way my car ran, that I noticed anyways.  Everything having to do with the way the smog pump entered the h-pipe was downstream of the O2's, so I don't believe they sensed any change under normal operation.  And the codes are only telling you the smog system isn't working, but not changing the way the motor is operating (theoretically).  I figure without the pump, you have less load on the motor.   You would not want cats with no smog pump, just an offroad H or X pipe.  And with that it stinks to high heaven sometimes, especially to those following you.   

Now all the other codes I believe will definitely have an adverse affect on the way the car runs, until they are fixed.  TPS, etc.

[hbombblack]

Thanks for your help Dozer. I readjusted the TPS voltage. Car still hunts for the right idle. Tomorrow I'm going to try and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for like 20 min then try reconnecting it. Is that the right procedure for resesting it?

I have another question. Today I checked for trouble codes again after plugging some stuff in that i removed. The updated trouble codes are as follows

31: PFE, EVP, EVR circuit below minimum voltage........what is this?
67: clutch switch circuit failure.......didn't hold the clutch in
82: air management 1 circuit failure......TAD or TAB possibly?
81: air management 2 circuit failure......TAD or TAB possibly?
85: cannister purge solenoid circuit failure

what is 82 and 81?

[J. D.]

That EGR failure may actually be a bad sensor, or EGR valve.  I think that is your only real failure. 

The others look like a result of you just having everything disconnected, and I don't believe I'd sweat them.  Same with the clutch switch failure.  I do that too sometimes. 

[J. D.]

Adjust the TPS to .97 vdc.   I've run it anywhere from .95-.98. 

Are you running any kind of aftermarket mass air?  Larger injectors?  Your surging might be because your idle air bypass valve is dirty. 

[J. D.]

what is 82 and 81?

Did you disconnect the actual valves on the passenger fenderwell, from the electrical harness?  If you did, that might be causing those codes.  I still have mine connected, but not controlling anything air-wise, and am only getting the 44 and 94.

[hbombblack]

Which valves are they? I don't have anything on the passenger fenderwall. I got a new wiring harness and there is no extra connectors left. I have a c and l cold air intake calibrated for my 24 # injectors.the idle air bypass valve is new. But i'll get a new one to see if there's a difference.

[J. D.]

I'd hate to say it, but that C&L MAF may be what is causing your surging.  Mine caused surging, until I removed it and went with a  Pro-M.  I just sold the Pro-M to another guy this weekend (I changed to a late model MAF).  He was also running a C&L, and his surging also went away after he switched to the Pro-M.  I know I could clock the C&L, or rotate it, to decrease the amount of surging I had, but the surging never really went away.

As for the two things I was describing before, they are pictured below.  Like I said before, I kept them plugged in, and only pop codes for smog not being there.  I am thinking that if you are still running the stock computer, it is looking for those actuators on the other end of the harness.  It's popping codes because they are not there (or doesn't see them).  I'm puzzled why there are no connectors for them on that new harness. 

The larger top object is your EGR vacuum controller.  If you are running EGR, I believe you need the top one.  I see the first set of codes had an 84 in it.  Was that EGR vacuum controller originally unplugged, then plugged back in before you ran the second set of codes?  The two bottom ones are the vacuum controllers for your smog piping (which you don't have).   Not sure what will happen if you don't have the two bottom ones connected and continue to pop 82 and 81.  Maybe nothing.