Should I build a 351W?

[BetterDays]

May have the chance to pick up a 351W block (no carb or intake, I think)...

Should I swap the 5.0 out and put a 5.8+ in its place?

Street/strip car...  will most likely go AOD as a trans if I can find the information I need..  Don't want a C4 since I will drive it to the track and on the highway occasionally.. 

Michelle,
let me know about the one you mentioned....

Also, you may notice the other hint in the message... 

Kevin

[quake101]

 5.8+??

[BetterDays]

If I stroke it out....  I am sure it is 5.8+ then....   

I think a 408 is 6.6 or something like that.....   

[quake101]

That's what i was thinking, now hard is it to get a stroker kit for a 351? How hard is it to install it in a fox?.....hrmmmm

[BadAndy]

Need 302 to 351w headers, probably engine mounts, new hood....they already have stroker kits available....408ci=

[BetterDays]

I don't know if I would go 408.....  I have read about people having issues with them....

I would need to do my research on what is out there, what is needed, etc..

But I know a 351 in a Fox is relatively simple..  :we-need-an-evil-laughter-smiley-to-insert-here:

[quake101]

[BetterDays]

Everytime I saw that, it was already spread eagle..   hahaha

Must be the four eyes.. can't see s***!
(I have an 84)...

[Freakingstang]

a 351W and an AOD?  Might as well keep the C4, unless you don't mind dumping about 2 grand into the tranny.

The 351 would be a wise choice for your goal of the 10's or 11's, just depends on how you set it up.  The 408's are a good combo, anything bigger than that and you are getting into problems if you want it to last and be a dependable street cruiser.

Gonna take Differant Headers and taller than stock hood to get it in there.

[TireSmoke]

393's are cheap enough to build....if you are going to replace the bottom end you might as well get a stroker crank!

[Dozer]

In my readings, I've found that the jump from a 393 to a 408 is minuscule, in terms of performance.   You'll see a difference at the track for sure, but not much of one on the street.   If you're going to balls out race it, go with the 408.

But it seems that most people opt for the 393 due to the longevity and streetability of the motor.

[speedfreak87]

In my readings, I've found that the jump from a 393 to a 408 is minuscule, in terms of performance. You'll see a difference at the track for sure, but not much of one on the street. If you're going to balls out race it, go with the 408.

But it seems that most people opt for the 393 due to the longevity and streetability of the motor.

what he said.

same goes for a 331 vs 347..... 347 is a monster at the track, but it doesn't last on the street.

[BetterDays]

Hood - - planning to buy a Cinci Composites Cowl..     
AOD - simply for the overdrive.  I am looking into more information on these, as well as aftermarket trans companies...    I may go C4, but have not decided on that one yet...  I would really like the OD for the trip to the track...  Either way, I will need to purchase and build a transmission...

408 stroker kit is around $800....  Did not see the kit for the 393.

Pump gas motor, healthy cam, etc....

















(Hood will be from HOFibertrends, not s***ty Composites.)

[NUTTSGT]

it would probaly be cheaper to build a C4 and buy a car trailer than to build an AOD to handle that stroked 351.

[HELMUT RONER]

What year 351W block is it?  You must be careful of piston selection when using a 1969 - 1970 as they have a 9.48 deck height.  After that they are 9.5 decks.  If you go with an aftermarket Windsor you might find a selection for 9.2 deck height.  I have a 1969 block and there are not too many readily available kits out there for my year as the pistons will pop up out of the cylinder.  Actually, I have yet to find an entire kit for the 9.48 deck height with flat top pistons.  Most of the people i have read about running the '69-'70 blocks are using custom made pistons for their applications.  That usually means more money.

[v8only]

What is your ultimate goal with the car?? My buddy is doing a VERY streetable low 12's, very low 12's with a stock 5.0 long block, afr 165 heads, edelbrock rpm 2's, and the typical bolt ons.  I suppose if you can do it as cost effectively, that would be really cool, but I don't think it's necessary for a street car, unless you really intend taking it to the next level.  Build the hell out of the aod, or go gforce or tremec 5 speed.

[BetterDays]

Lower than 12's is the goal....

The only problems with a trailer:
No truck (another investment)
No place to store a trailer
Not turning the car into a trailer queen

I am pricing my options.  This is still very early in the planning stages..  VERY EARLY....

[TireSmoke]

tko!  tko!

[Aussie XAXB]

408 kit info http://www.rpmmachine.com/ford-351w-408-stroker.shtml

396 kit info http://www.rpmmachine.com/ford-351w-396-stroker.shtml

A really good group for building 351's of any type and stroker versions. VERY info intense in the files section besides the forum.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/351ClevelandsRock302C351C351Boss351HO400/


Steve #7

[Evil95GT]

I'd say you should go with the 393. A buddy of ours had one, and it was a very stealthy set up.......ran like a total beast, but looked like a sleeper. I think Livernois makes a 393, but it'll cost out the ass. Did you try Fox Lake? As far as AODs, they're nice if you're gonna dump some money into them. A stock one, I couldn't deal with. Even with the addition of a shift kit, it sucked major ass. And if you're looking into converters, stay FAR away from GER. The dude is a total crook who sells s*** inside a case.

[BetterDays]

I received a sign to go 393...  so, that is the plan..  I am supposed to pick up a 351W tomorrow near Crapway 42...

Tore apart the rest of the 302 tonight..  lots of sparkles in the oil filter! 

I already sold my Perf RPM intake to basically cover the cost of the longblock....

10.5:1 393 should make a ~little~ bit of power....

[Evil95GT]

Just look at it this way..........

The same guy who has the 393W also has a 357W.......that one is in a LX hatch. With 11:1 compression, canfield heads, a stealthy cam, and a super victor intake (along with gears, exhaust, all the little bolt ons), the car went consistant 11.50s @ right around 117 MPH. The car looked stock.......full weight too, and the gears were wimp 3.55s. No power adder. Didn't even run full slicks. He had Konig Villains with drag radials (17"). So there's your motivation. 

[quake101]

Just look at it this way..........

The same guy who has the 393W also has a 357W.......that one is in a LX hatch. With 11:1 compression, canfield heads, a stealthy cam, and a super victor intake (along with gears, exhaust, all the little bolt ons), the car went consistant 11.50s @ right around 117 MPH. The car looked stock.......full weight too, and the gears were wimp 3.55s. No power adder. Didn't even run full slicks. He had Konig Villains with drag radials (17"). So there's your motivation.

Nice!!

[Ray III]

As soon as I buy myself a 5.0 car I am gonna swap in a 5.8 shortblock. They are better period. Not only is there 16% more displacement but most (all?) of it is basically from a longer stroke so it will make much more than 16% more torque over a 5.0.

Unlike a 5.0 stroker kit, the block itself has taller decks, so rod ratio stays reasonable for a quarter million mile service life.

And then the different block has more strength, supposedly will handle 750 horsepower to the 5.0's 500.

Use a stock shortblock from any 5.8 liter TRUCK application... I can't remember if any have forged pistons, if not, then I would replace only the pistons (preferably with lighter ones) so that I have forged aluminum in the motor which will take a severe beating without breaking apart.

Take it all apart, have the crank bores align honed and check bores to ensure perpendicularity with crankshaft centerline and roundness (if not, bore out as little as possible, you can usually get oversize sets in .010" increments). Weight match all pistons and connecting rods, have bottom end neutral balanced. This preparation to the shortblock before installation will result in a smoother running motor and free up several horsepower.

[BetterDays]

New Crank
New Rods
New Pistons
etc.

Machine work will be completed by a local shop here in Elyria.
Motor build will be completed by a race car driver/builder/mechanic, as I (along with friends) learn how to do it. 

I saw that Summit/Trick Flow (one in the same) built a 393...

"Further up the small block scale is the 393. Windsors are becoming -- heck, they already are -- a very popular swap with the Mustang crowd. It's kind of a no-brainer. For a few bucks more than a five-oh, the 351W gives you extra torque-creating cubic inches...and a stroked 351W gives you even more.

The key to the 393 is the crank. Summit now has a 3.850 in. cast stroker crank designed to build a 393 with a .030 overbored block, stock length 351W rods, and stock-type 302 pistons. Our 393 features that crank plus Summit H-beam rods, Trick Flow 10:1 forged pistons, a Crane .574/.595 in. lift roller cam with a Crane roller lifter retrofit kit (required for the 1979-vintage non-roller block), and Trick Flow R-Series cylinder heads.

Instead of going fuel-injected, we did the carburetion thing. Since the 393 is a veritable torque factory, we used an Edelbrock Victor Jr. 351W intake manifold to build some horsepower up top without losing low-end power. We originally planned to use the 750 Holley double pumper carburetor we featured in the 393 buildup article, but on the advice of the Trick Flow staff, switched to a 750 cfm Demon double pumper for the dyno tests.

After fiddling with timing (the 393 decided it liked 36 degrees total advance) and carb jetting (73s primary and secondary), and adding a 1 in. open spacer to help further boost the top end, we settled into making big power.

In the buildup article, we stated that the engine should make 500 horsepower naturally aspirated -- and even more with the 150 horsepower NOS nitrous kit we wanted to use. While the nitrous deal didn't happen in time for this article, we beat the 500 figure with 529 horsepower at 6,500 rpm. And there was all that lovely torque, peaking at 472 foot-pounds at 5,000 rpm. This power was not gained at the expense of low rpm torque -- not with 377 ft.-lbs. of it available at three grand. Think about this beastlike 393 between the fenders of a five-speed Fox body!"

I plan to buy/have ground a cam with better specs.. No Trick Flow Heads for me though....

Kevin

[Evil95GT]

I *highly* recommend Victor Jr. heads. They worked wonderfully for me.

[stang-fan69]

I´d like to put a 392 stroker in my 69 and want to use the short block Ford Racing is offering.

Since it should be a torquey street car without strip use, I don´t want to rev that high. I´d like to have peak torque around 3000 - 3500 and peak horsepower around 5500, redline around 6000.

What head / cam / Intake / carb combo would you recommend? Can I use my 69-style distributor (equipped with PertronixII) or should I get a MSD system or something similar?

btw: Has this Ford-Racing block already a roller cam or still the old-style tappets?
Are rods and pistons already weight-matched?

[Ray III]

Low-end torque is measured at 3000 RPM? Please.

[TireSmoke]

lol....when you have crazy gears it is

[Gravel]

Low-end torque is measured at 3000 RPM? Please.

Uhh Ray, he said peak torque coming in around 3000.... If it is nearing peak at 3k then it has a pretty strong line below that...