Several questions, so I figured might as well knock them down in one thread.

All these questions retain to my upcoming engine swap.  A friend is building a Dart 331, and decided to sell me his H/C/I off his 302.  Then we decided since he wasn't going to keep the lower end, that we would just swap longblock.  Here's the engine:



He is keeping the TB, EGR spacer, the injectors, mass air meter, and intake spacer.  He got 42s and matching Pro-M when he bought a S-Trim last month, and sold me those with the engine.  I'm currently searching for a TB and EGR spacer, and I've already brought up that subject, so I'll skip that.

First question, my already skipping king cobra clutch isn't going to hold up to the 450ish rwhp I should have.  This engine with 13-14psi via novi 100 put down 442 running rich as hell from a FMU.  I fugre with the 42s, a tune it should be 450rwhp.  The car is mostly a street car, so I don't want an extremely heavy clutch.  Spec stage 2 maybe?  Any ideas?

Question two.  Since the engine will be out, I plan to replace the badly worn out stock ones.  Any ideas on what to use.  I believe i remember hearing the vert motor mounts drop the engine a bit?  That might be a good idea since I'll be running an intake space due to the tall valve covers. 

Question three.  I've only even yanked an engine WITH the T5.  I see no reason to this time.  How exactly does one go about yanking an engine without the t5?  I'm guessing you yank the upper, and then have room to reach down to the bellhousing bolts?  Any imput is welcome

Question four.  I plan on moving my gauges around.  I currently have two in the center vents, and my fuel pressure gauge outside on the cowl.  I plan to move my boost guage over to the left hand side of the stock gauge closter as shown here:



That will let me move my fuel pressure gauge inside once I buy a new electric one.  Anyone ever installed one of these?  I don't even have a clue how it goes it, but I'm guessing it can't be that bad.

Just speaking from my experiences;  I have a vert and am running vert mounts.  I ran a 1/2 inch plenum spacer with my stock manifold and hood with no problems.  BUT, my KB 1500 would not fit under the stock hood (with no spacer).  Even when it was advertised to do so.

And the RPM II I was running, and the Systemax II (both using a 1" spacer) didn't fit under the stock hood either.  I can't tell you anything about other intakes, only those. 

Holy crap, I've dealt with http://www.jdsperformance.com/ before, and they always have the best prices.  I just noticed their web site says their shop is here in Orlando.    Looks like I know where I'll be buying my clutch, and possibly a renegade 8" crank pulley.

Leave the bell housing on the engine, just pull the trans off and yank everything else out together. If you've got a load leveler you can even leave longtubes on.

Going to clean up the engine bay prior to dropping in the new powerplant?

She's off...



Yeah, a little dirity. 



Air filter is not looking that bad.  I thought it would be a lot dirtier.



Here you can see the caked on oil mess now covered in dust/dirt.  I think my hands will never be white again.

that sway bar link looks to be in top condition

Looks like it's been beating away at your spring there too.

Google finally approved of this little vid on my car.  This is the last time she ran with the stock 5.0 + S-Trim combo

<a href="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=-7882758793747590549" target="_blank">http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=-7882758793747590549</a>

Well I decided to yank the headers.  Got all the locking clips off(stage 8 locking bolts), and went under to get the nuts off the header to h-pipe bolts.  Got all 4 of those easily off.  Removed the bolts, and the dirvers header came off fine.  On the passanger side, I was down to 2 bolts left.  One was hitting the 4 tybes from the header(can't think of the exact term), so I decided to remve the other bolt, thus I could then pull the header away from the head a bit, and get the last bolt out.  So I go to loosen the 2nd to last bolt...and it strips. 

This is going to be fun

Yeah, thats the word.

See, dirvers side came off fine.  The red RVT was still holding just fine.  I had to yank the header from the head.



Yup, I'm sure making some progress under the hood.



f***in' header bolts



Here you can see the one thats slightly hitting the primary, and the one on the left thats now striped. 



All in all, despite her faded paint, oil leaks, and random stripped bolts, she's still an accident free, rust free car...

I might not have stripped the damn bolt if the freakin' smog line wasn't there.  Oh well, the new engine sure won't have any smog lines. 

I figured this way it would make it easier to yank the engine.

Look at all of the holes in the engine bay...


Once it is pulled, you should fill them...