My friend Josh has a procharged 306 with an electric fan, relocated battery, stereo, and a stock alternator. On the dyno, he was running out of fuel on the top end. We could see his battery gauge dropping. We yanked the fuses for this fan and stereo, and he picked up 20 some rwhp.
Right away, we knew what his next upgrade was going to be.
I bought a complete 130 amp alternator, with the upgraded wiring, and all the little extra needing this via ebay from:
http://stores.ebay.com/mustang-alternator-guyThe kit includes:
- Brand New (not remanufactured) Genuine Ford MotorCraft 130 amp 3G alternator, with 1 7/8" overdrive pulley. The alternator in this kit is no longer available through Ford dealerships. Currently, you can only get this alternator as a remanufactured part, through Ford dealerships. Again, the alternator in this kit is 100% new (not reman)
- Seven feet of 4 gauge power wire, cut to proper lengthes w/ the needed 5/16" (1/4" at alt) ring terminals, professionally press crimp mounted, heat shrink covered at connections, and wire loom protection over the length.
- ANL fuse holder
- 200 AMP ANL fuse
- Harness : regulator and stator
- butt connector
- bolt (2" x 3/8"), washer and nut.
- the needed ring terminals
- Install instructions w/ illustrations.
Here's a picture of the stuff right from the box.
When I upgraded mine, I swore the headlights were brighter, so this time I decided to get a before and after. Here's the before.
Here's Josh's engine bay. Note he uses a summit racing alternator bracket as the stock setup won't work on his engine.
Here's this crappy reman stock alternator.
Step 1, remove your alternator
Here's what the stock wiring harness looks like.
On the larger connector, you need to cut the plug off.
Using the provided items, make those 3 wires look like this.
Now with the stock alternator bracket, some modification is required. These alternator are a bit larger, so some of the bracket needs to be cut. I thought on Josh's car we wouldn't have a problem, but I was wrong. The little brackter that connects to the alt is shown here.
With the new alternator, I guess the mounting hole is slightly off, thus we had to use my new grinder. Here you can kinda see where I had to grind. I had to grind the entire area that sits flush against the alternator.
I was then able to bolt up that little bracket to the alternator.
Next attach all the wires to the new alternator.
Yes, as you can see, the upgraded wire there is attached as well. For routing that, I went from the alternator, around this MSD.
Through the headlight openings, and under the radiator support.
Back in on the drivers side headlight opening.
Here's the fuse in its holded, fully secured, in the frame rail.
Lastly, the wire is attached to the starter relay.
Next, just bolt your alternator back into place
...and you are now done.
Here's the after photo.
Now, before you scroll back up, and then down real quick to try and see the difference, I've taken care of that for you.
Besides just the brightness difference on the wall, also notice the edge of the toolbox, the MAC logo, and the passenger inside light as well.
