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Author Topic: Thinking about getting a paint job...  (Read 996 times)
Chowder Head
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« on: June 05, 2008, 06:01:48 PM »

So my cars paint job has been s*** for a while now and I think I want to get it repainted. I have money saved up because I originally decided that I was going to get a bike. Then I realized I could use the money I have saved up for some exterior parts if I want them and to get it repainted. I mean, I don't drive my car that far so the MPG's I'd be getting compared to a bike would of course be different but damn, my car is fun to drive.

Anyways, let's say I want to get my car repainted. Exactly how much are we talking about? I want more than a Maaco job but I don't exactly need 72345 coats of paint either. Something that will look good by itself and pretty stunning when it's waxed. I know most paint jobs are all about prep which leads me to my next question......how involved is prep work exactly? What needs to be done? Any half attempted disses or "you can't do it's" will result in your ass getting punted. Just level with me and tell me what is involved, is it worth it, all that jazz. Nothing more, nothing less.

Now if I don't have the time for a proper prep, how much is the average cost for a body shop to prep and paint it so it looks pretty damn good?

Thanks.
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« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2008, 06:11:21 PM »

A proper body shop isn't going to want anything to do with a car that a customer has prepped.  It's kind of like, there's one charge to do the job, another if you watch, and another if you f***ed with it.   LOL  Seriously, The only prep that I can think that you could do to maybe reduce your costs would be to pull all your headlights, tailights, emblems and such.  The rest is sanding, filling, priming, and such.  A decent painter isn't going to want to spray anything he hasn't personally gone over.  It's a reflection of him if it turns out s***ty because you missed dents when you were blocking and sanding. 
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« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2008, 06:13:59 PM »

FYI, you want a good base coat, clear coat paint, not a single stage paint.  My dad likes Dupont, PPG Products, and Sherwin Williams for the most part. 
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« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2008, 06:18:34 PM »

A good paint job will require trim removal and perhaps even some parts removal such as rocker panel covers and such.  If not they will become one with the body where they meet and when they flex you'll end up with cracked paint.  The jamb areas should be done as well as the areas around the trunk that you see when it's raised.  Crappy painters will try to mask off everything rather than take the time to do it right. 
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Chowder Head
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« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2008, 06:19:48 PM »

A proper body shop isn't going to want anything to do with a car that a customer has prepped.  It's kind of like, there's one charge to do the job, another if you watch, and another if you f***ed with it.   LOL  Seriously, The only prep that I can think that you could do to maybe reduce your costs would be to pull all your headlights, tailights, emblems and such.  The rest is sanding, filling, priming, and such.  A decent painter isn't going to want to spray anything he hasn't personally gone over.  It's a reflection of him if it turns out s***ty because you missed dents when you were blocking and sanding. 
Never thought about that. Makes sense though, thanks.

So if and when I get it painted, just make sure it includes a good base coat and a clear coat? That's it? The only thing I'm unsure about is the cost for a pretty good paint job. I don't want a paint job that's going to break the bank but nothing that's so cheap it's not going to last either. The middle ground, so to speak.
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« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2008, 06:32:48 PM »

Michael, just get quotes from several reputable shops and spell it out to them how you want it done.  Find out what products they use.  You should also know that it isn't just a spray it and you come pick it up type of thing.  Most if not all paint jobs require some degree of buffing and finishing afterwards.  I know it seems odd, but it's true.  Despite a painters best efforts there will always be some minor imperfections that need to be corrected afterwards.  I'm not talking about giant runs, but sometimes a little orange peel or such that needs to be addressed.  The paint will have to cure a bit before they mess with it so do expect to get it back the day after it's sprayed or plan on bringing it back afterwards to have that stuff done. 

Just about all modern paint jobs today are what's called base coat / Clear coat.  A base coat is put on that is usually rather dull by itself.  The clear is then sprayed shortly after.  Paint and materials themselves are very expensive and can run several hundred dollars alone. 
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« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2008, 06:37:56 PM »

Ive learned that, just like most things but especially with paint, you get what you pay for.  I am fortunate that my uncle is a car nut and professional painter.  thats the best way to get a good paint job cheap.  But if you dont know anybody then its tough.  just be careful i guess is all im saying.


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« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2008, 07:45:28 PM »

You absolutely get what you pay for.  And let the pros do it all.  I've used almost every brand of paint, and I like PPG the best.  Expect it to take about a week, depending on how much body work is needed.  As far as cost, it depends on color and how much work. 
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« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2008, 08:51:58 PM »

If you're getting everything done over then I'd say 3k or is what to expect.  Like Wilson said, you touch it and they won't.

I've got a shop nearby called FinishMasters and the lady sells me paint cheap.  Last time I went in there for a gallon of clear, gallon of silky silver, and hardener it ran me $50.  Anyone else and it would have been about 150-200.  If you get something that needs one base coat then another color laid on top that'll add to it. (candy colors etc) 


The prep work and the final cut and buff are extremely time consuming and are not for a n00b.  It's way to easy to miss spots when sanding, round off corners, and burn the clear.  If you decide to do any of this work yourself have someone there that can help you, and take your time. (I don't reccomend you doing anything but take parts off so they don't have to.)
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« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2008, 09:02:45 PM »

Hell even Maaco will charge 1000 minimum for a base clear. It is the only way to fly. 

Now that being said, you say you would possibly be interested in the prep?  DON'T!!!

First off, it is the most crucial part of painting and secondly IT IS SUCK ASS tedious labor intensive work that will make you want to blow your brains out with a shotgun. 

That is all. Plan on spending 2k minimum but you are not really gonna know until you start calling around.
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« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2008, 09:04:26 PM »

Sound advice, thanks guys. Knowing this, I don't think I'm going to prep it myself.

So would you all agree with what ELB said, about 3k for everything? Exactly what kind of job will that give me? Something equivalent to a factory or something a bit better? And I'm guessing I have to make absolutely sure the body is what I want, as that will get painted, eh? Time to start looking at bumpers and stuff, lol. If anyone has any suggestions for body parts that look mean as s*** on a SN95, definitely let me know.
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« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2008, 12:23:18 AM »

Thanks Blackie. Looks like the prep is definitely out, haha.

Now, I'm trying to decide if I want to add body parts before I get it painted, as it's the best time to do it if I want to do it, eh?

Anyway, either some Saleen or Cobra parts are calling to me. The best thing I like about the Saleen stuff is the front bumper.

If I were to go with the Saleen bumper, I would either keep the stock hood, or get the Saleen heat extractor hood as well. These first three pics are of stangs with the saleen bumper. First two have the stockish looking hood (is it stock?) and the red one has the extractor hood. Both look pretty b****in' IMO.







(one more Saleen bumper + Saleen heat extractor hood)


Then we have the Cobra stuff. I like the Cobra bumper as well and either the 94-95 cobra hood, the stock GT hood, or the 96-98 Cobra hood (the one that looks like nostrils)

This one has the 94-95 Cobra hood with the Cobra bumper:


This one has the 96-98 Cobra hood with the Cobra bumper:


Soo.....what do you guys like best? I'd love to hear some opinions. I'm still tossing around the idea of ordering something or leaving it stock so my mind is definitely not made up yet. I want this thread to have at least 5 pages of opinions when I wake up tomorrow damnit!
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« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2008, 05:45:25 AM »

Actually, the black Cobra, pic #5, has a 95 Cobra R hood.  I like that look the best, but it's not my car.  Go with what you like the best.  It's your car, and you'll have to live with whatever decision you make.  If you like the Saleen, then do the Saleen.  How much other body work does the car need?
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« Reply #13 on: June 06, 2008, 05:57:44 AM »

The 95 that my parents have came with complete saleen kit.  It's not all that it's cracked up to be IMO.  It's ok and it does add to the car, fit is so so, but not horrible.  I would go for the Cobra stuff if you are going to change anything.  You posted some good examples. 
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« Reply #14 on: June 06, 2008, 06:59:21 AM »

Prep work sucks ass. Find yourself a mom & pop paint shop that has some creditability. I've found some cool guys around here and made some real good deals for paint jobs.
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« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2008, 09:11:36 AM »

I really like the Saleen wheels on the '96ish Cobras with the Saleen spoiler.
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« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2008, 06:17:46 PM »

yea i scratched the pass. side of the mustang, not bad just a little one on every body panel down to the metal so the whole side of the car needs painted. Im gonna do it myself but ive painted a few and i have access to a garage the tools and help. 
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« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2008, 08:34:03 PM »

Damnit, I'm still no where near making a decision.

I remembered this pic, Phil's old car that has the same exact rims I have with a Cobra bumper and the 96-98 Cobra hood, the one with the nostrils. What are you guys thought about this? Just imagine it dark green if you can and you get the idea.





I know it's my decision but it's always nice to hear some opinions. I think the biggest thing IMO is deciding which bumper I want because that will narrow down the hood choices.

Any other opinions or replies would be kewl, thanks.
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« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2008, 09:23:58 PM »

My cars!  Cry
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« Reply #19 on: June 06, 2008, 09:45:54 PM »

The rest were yours too? Sorry for digging up old wounds. LOL
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« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2008, 01:36:17 PM »

Damnit to hell. I think I was decided on Cobra stuff but I just HAD to see more pictures of the red car I already posted.

This is pretty sick looking IMO...these have the heat extractor hood on them.













This has the Saleen bumper but has the Cobra R hood I believe.





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« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2008, 01:55:23 PM »

It is entirely your decision, but as you're asking I'll throw my .02 cents in and say that the saleen stuff hsa got too many vents/extractors on it making them appear somewhat ricey or cluttered. I prefer the clean low key approach myself, but hope that you like whatever you choose, and post up pics when you get it done.
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« Reply #22 on: June 07, 2008, 02:23:34 PM »

Cleanest and best looking car is to be had with 96-98 Cobra hood OR Cobra R hood, OEM (not jap) cobra front bumper, leave the rear bumper alone, and see if you can scrounge up the 94-95 Cobra 'crab claw' wing.  That combo on prostars or convo pros or standard R's is the shizz.

If you're going green though, black or anthracite bullit rims with the deep-dished rears are also attractive as hell.

Is your car already green?  Or are you a weirdo that's choosing it?

Something I would consider is a green that's a bit off of the factory, but not enough to require jamming everything.  Something with a little more blue in it or something.  That's just because I hate that f***ing green with a passion.

...

That's my thoughts.  Of course, those body panels will be expensiveish ($300ish for a used hood, $250ish for a real cobra bumper cover, $200ish for the crab claw), wheels are always expensive as hell, and any fanciness in paint is also usually a premium.

You may find yourself in a better position to just sell it and get one that looks how you want it already.
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« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2008, 02:28:13 PM »

That red car is b****in.

I hate the 94-98 style, and I hate red cars.  But, that one nailed 'em both right on, well done.
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« Reply #24 on: June 07, 2008, 03:24:32 PM »

That black one that's pulling the wheelie is the guy I bought my yellow '98 Cobra roller from.
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« Reply #25 on: June 07, 2008, 06:09:51 PM »

I hate the 94-98 style, and I hate red cars. 
The style can be improved, but the interior on them is uncomfortable. I drive my son's '97 once in awhile, that's only if I have to.
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