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Author Topic: I don't learn, do I?  (Read 3560 times)
quake101
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« Reply #30 on: August 21, 2008, 11:19:58 AM »

I just tested with a working switch (the drivers window switch). I don't know if that year is the same but the switches just pull out of the big black module.
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« Reply #31 on: August 21, 2008, 01:29:08 PM »

I imagine its dry already right? Did you get it up off the ground so it would dry?
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« Reply #32 on: August 22, 2008, 11:26:07 AM »

Yeah, it's dry. Smiley

Oh, the switches actually pull off the black module? Sweet. I'll have to check these out in the future once I get this completed.

Last question for right now. What's the best tool to use to cut circles in wood? Nothing too major, just a hole big enough to cover my mids and a hole for my tweeters. I've been looking at bits to make circles with but I'm not having much luck.

Thanks!
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« Reply #33 on: August 22, 2008, 03:21:55 PM »

These would be useful.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4095

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38425

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« Reply #34 on: August 25, 2008, 11:20:26 AM »

I'm actually going to go check with my neighbor first, as he's got some tools I might able to use. But thanks for that Chris, nice to know they actually exist if I do happen to need to make circles in the future.

Well, update time. Car is completely sound deadened, with the only exception being the trunk, which I will probably do later anyway when I get my sub. Now I'm just piecing the interior back together, trying to remember which parts go to what piece, ha. I individually baggied a lot of the screws and fasteners and such but I think I should of labeled said baggies.

Rear pieces are halfway done, including the quarter panels and such. Just need to put the other side on, attach the back seats, front seats, center console, make some quick connections and I'm done. Too bad I can't work out there today for too long because it is RIDICULOUSLY hot outside. I desperate need an overhang or one of those tarp car garages or something.

Just one last question. My power driver seat will let me go forward and reverse but not up and down. Lumbar support doesn't work either IIRC. Is there anything I can do without replacing the motors themselves that might fix it? I figured since is currently in my house, might as well try something since I can easily access it. If I have to get a motor, I'll wait until later.

Thanks again all. Stay tuned for my TWO tech articles in the foreseeable future. Cheesy
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« Reply #35 on: August 27, 2008, 08:11:11 AM »

Amp is installed and hooked up, beefy mids are mounted with trimmed baffels, and the until the template is made for the tweets, I might just stick them there. I want to power the audio system up and ensure it's working before I finally install the seats and center console....I fear I might of missed a few things because I have more of those leftover black plastic push screws than I'm supposed to have. LOL Oh well! This is taking longer than I expected but I blame the weather and school starting up this week. Luckily it's nearly 95% done. Smiley

Before I put the seats back on, any tricks to the previously mentioned problem? Or is replacing the motor the only way to fix it?
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« Reply #36 on: August 27, 2008, 09:49:10 AM »

How much did you spend on materials to do the whole sound deadening thing?
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« Reply #37 on: August 27, 2008, 11:05:14 AM »

THose are for the front kick panels if it's a large single flange head, the door liners have a double flange head, and the seat bolt covers have a smaller single flange head.
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« Reply #38 on: August 27, 2008, 11:10:39 AM »

Just one roll of RAAMat BXT, which is around $120 for a 15" x 50'. No rollers, heat guns, or anything else is required. You can use a roller if you wish but it isn't required. Direct link: http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr

I got mine off of ebay for around $90, shipped. Quite a savings on a product that is considered one of the best bang for the buck deadener's out there. See for yourself: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

The one roll allowed me to sound deaden both sides of the doors, including a double layer near the speakers, the floor, rear seats, with just a tad left over if you wanted to fill in tiny spots you missed.

So I know Peel and & Seal is recommended, and I won't recommend against it, but please note, RAAMat is a dedicated deadener. In fact, I've heard about people putting Peel and & Seal on the doors, and having it start to come off, thanks to gravity. Of course, if applied on the floor, you won't have a problem but in my opinion, if you're going to sound deadener your car, ensure you purchase something you feel is worth it, and not just the cheapest option. Because I will say, once you apply it, it is VERY difficult to remove.

Lastly, the guy who runs it, Rick, is a great guy to deal with. I mentioned to him that some of the stuff was hard to get off, and he mentioned there was some problems going on with the back paper in previous patches. He recommended putting it in a cold area to get it unstuck and if I wasn't able to get any off, to just tell him and he'll send it out right away...for free. Hell, he even threw in some Ensolite and spray (check the first link) because I merely commented that I wish I purchased it in the first place. Shocked

I'll have a full report on the differences when I get my car on the road, which should be tomorrow if you'd like. Stay tuned for the two tech articles, one of them about sound deadening if you're unclear about anything. Cheesy
« Last Edit: August 27, 2008, 11:12:21 AM by Chowder Head » Logged

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« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2008, 11:13:20 AM »

THose are for the front kick panels if it's a large single flange head, the door liners have a double flange head, and the seat bolt covers have a smaller single flange head.
Errr...huh? Maybe I'm not reading this correctly or something, haha.
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« Reply #40 on: August 27, 2008, 01:49:38 PM »

THose are for the front kick panels if it's a large single flange head, the door liners have a double flange head, and the seat bolt covers have a smaller single flange head.
Errr...huh? Maybe I'm not reading this correctly or something, haha.
Look at the heads of the plastic push screws and read what I wrote
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« Reply #41 on: August 27, 2008, 03:58:37 PM »

Ohhh...you were talking about the push screws. I thought you were referring to my power seat question. I was like what the hell does a kick panel have to do with the seat? LOL

But yeah, I know what the kick panel push screws look like and I forgot about the trunk carpet, where I need like 3 or 4 of them.
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« Reply #42 on: August 27, 2008, 04:20:33 PM »

I thought you were talking about what to do with those plastic things? LOL
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« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2008, 04:27:38 PM »

I was referring to this.

Just one last question. My power driver seat will let me go forward and reverse but not up and down. Lumbar support doesn't work either IIRC. Is there anything I can do without replacing the motors themselves that might fix it? I figured since is currently in my house, might as well try something since I can easily access it. If I have to get a motor, I'll wait until later.

As long as the stuff stays in place, I can have however many screws I want leftover. I don't really care. LOL
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« Reply #44 on: August 28, 2008, 03:06:19 PM »

Not to belabor the point but you said you bought it on ebay....which seller? I can't find it on there.
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« Reply #45 on: August 28, 2008, 03:56:09 PM »

Unfortunately, it wasn't an authorized dealer, just a dude who wanted to sell it. Here's the link to the one I won, if it matters any: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230273583577

If you can't score any ebay, I think they had some group deal things from car audio forums. I haven't heard about one when I ordered mine but I can keep a look out. If you can't get any cheaper than the direct price I still think it is worth when you consider the bang for the buck ration involved. If you don't want to spend that much, then the Peel & Seal should help out. Not as good as the RAAMat but certainly better than nothing at all. If this is a car that sees a lot of street time, I highly recommend it. The doors shut with a thud now, and the panels aren't even on yet.

Oh, and I fired up my audio system for the first time a little while ago........and everything works! W00t! Even though it's untuned, it sounded pretty good! A lot better than the stock crap and like I just mentioned, I didn't even adjust anything yet so here's hoping it will sound 1000x better! Now that I know it works, I now have to throw on the few remaining pieces and I'll be done! Then I can give a report about the sound deadening results if anyone is interested.
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« Reply #46 on: September 01, 2008, 06:02:59 PM »

Alright, every thing is done. Stay tuned for two upcoming tech articles in a week or so.
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